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This was a really fun project, perfect for my level of weaving expertise - which is not much. I think this is the fifth warp that has been on my loom since I have owned it.
Since the yarn was not expensive ($15 for everything) and there was no sizing pressure, I could just relax and enjoy the entire process. I am so glad that
Leigh inspired me do do this. We all need to have this sort of project that is not intended to be impressive, but just to enjoy. In fact, I am so tempted to go out and beam up another couple of blankets while the weather is temperate. Pretty soon, I won't be able to weave because it will be too cold in the
weaving studio garage.
Project Data:Width in reed: 36"
Warp length: 3.5 yds
Finished width before washing: 32"
Finished length before washing: 90"
Yarn: Bernat Baby Coordinates, Self Striping in Pink and Purple, 404 yds per skein = 5.25 oz, Sport Weight, Yarn weight symbol 3
Number of skeins used: 5 for weaving, 1 for edgings.
Sett: 8 epi
Warp ends: 292 last 2 dents doubled on each side for selvage.
PPI: half at 8 and half at about 12
Weave Structure: Plain Weave
Breakthroughs: It is possible to get a warp on the loom without missed dents and crossed threads. This is a first for me and I hope a trend.
Lessons Learned:- Watch PPI when beating. Aim for balance.
- When using a patterned yarn, pay close attention to the way the shuttle bobbins are begun and stopped to avoid uneven patterns or striping in the final woven project.
When I finished weaving the length for the first blanket, I noticed I was really eating up the weft yarn. I finally realized that my PPI was about 12 instead of being an even 8 to match the sett. So, on the second blanket, I made an effort to beat more lightly and get to about 8 PPI.
I was then worried that the first blanket was going to feel like a board when it came off the loom. After washing and drying, I can not tell that much difference between the two. Both are nice. When I examine the second one I can tell the PPI is looser, and the hand is more drapey, but the first one is fine as well. The babies who get them should be very snugly.
The crochet edgings are done and I have blocked both blankets. It has been a while since I crocheted, and I had forgotten the rules for spacing the initial row of single crochets.
On the first blanket, I got the single crochets too close together. When the rest of the edging was added, it rippled a little bit. So, on the second blanket I stretched the sc's out a bit and when I got finished the edge was pulling in a little.
This was all fixed with steam. Both of them look wonderful after blocking. The edgings took almost an entire skein of yarn. Crochet really eats it up.
Edging Patterns:.
Blanket 1: Base row 1 - Begin in the middle of one side,SC around blanket edge, 3 SC in corners, sl ends together c2, turn. R2 - HDC around 3 HDC in corners, sl end together. Ch 3 turn. R3 - *Skip 2 st, 3 DC in next st. Repeat from * around. At corners add a ch 1 between the DC clusters and make them come out close to the corner. Join with a sl st. Ch 1 Do not turn. R4 - Crab stitch around putting 1 st in the top of each DC from the row below and 1 in corners. To crab stitch, work sc from left to right - opposite the normal direction
Blanket 2: Base row 1 - Begin in the middle of one side,SC around blanket edge, 3 SC in corners, sl ends together c1, turn. R2 - Sc around with 3 SC in corners sl ends together. R3 - HDC around, 3 HDC in corners, sl ends together, ch1 turn. R4 - SC around, 3 SC in corners, Sl end together, c3 turn. R5 - 2 DC in same stitch as Ch, (sk 2, Ch3, 2DC in next S). Repeat between () around. Fasten off.
The burnt sienna color yarn is an wool-alpaca blend that I got from Zeilinger's Wool Mill several years ago when we were in Michigan. The pink is Romney from my friend Rusty's sheep. 
